The final area is the Appenine mountains between Fidenza and Avenza. Definitely the best part for me although my dodgy ankle isn't quite up to some of the descents. Staying in Cassio (pop 200) the hostel had two rooms full of food. You just pay for what you use in your own judgement. Same goes for the drink. The views are good here but nothing that you wouldn't see in the Wicklow mountains. Still, the pilgrims weren't concerned with views back then. 'Twas all about absolution from God. Indeed. Last night in Ponyremoli we had the local dish which was a crepe diced with pesto sauce on top. Delicious.
This is written from Aulla (desperate kip, but nice hostel run by the priests) which is 516 kms from Grand San Barnardo on the Swiss border and is the half way point I think. I go to these Happy Shops a lot to help ease the tension. 
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